I dremeled and filed down the flashing around the edges. I also fixed that crater in the pipe wrench by pressing it back into the mold with some fresh resin.
I'm still having a little trouble leveling the feet. It looks like they may have been angled slightly in the casting process. It'll take some time but I should be able to sand them until they're level.
February 24, 2011
February 23, 2011
Better then expected resin cast
Okay, here it is. I'm not too sure about the thickness yet so I may end up drilling a hole in the bottom and adding more resin just to make sure it's durable.
You can see there is a lot of flashing around the edges but that was expected. There were some silicone bubbles between the legs that led to excess resin that will need to be filed down.
The biggest problem was a resin bubble that formed in the pipe wrench during the casting. It's hard to see in the picture below but there's actually a large crater in the side of the wrench making it almost hollow. I had a similar problem with part of the Rageguy cast and I filled it in okay so hopefully it won't be too big a problem.
Once I get it all cleaned up I'll find out whether or not the baby powder in the mold actually made it paintable.
You can see there is a lot of flashing around the edges but that was expected. There were some silicone bubbles between the legs that led to excess resin that will need to be filed down.
The biggest problem was a resin bubble that formed in the pipe wrench during the casting. It's hard to see in the picture below but there's actually a large crater in the side of the wrench making it almost hollow. I had a similar problem with part of the Rageguy cast and I filled it in okay so hopefully it won't be too big a problem.
Once I get it all cleaned up I'll find out whether or not the baby powder in the mold actually made it paintable.
February 21, 2011
Casting
I decided to scrap the inferior half of the mold shell which was too far gone to use. I set the silicone into the face half and drizzled plaster over the back to hold it in place. The plaster all the way around also lets me hold it while rotocasting without compromising the shape of the silicone.
Since most of my keys didn't survive the original separation, I decided to keep the back shell pretty thin and I'll just break it off when I'm ready to demold. The rubber bands are just there for added support.
The first batch of resin mostly leaked out through the seams. It was expected so I mixed a small batch. The first batch also sealed the seams as it cured so I shouldn't have to worry about any more leaking, I'll just have a lot of cleanup to do on the finished product.
Since most of my keys didn't survive the original separation, I decided to keep the back shell pretty thin and I'll just break it off when I'm ready to demold. The rubber bands are just there for added support.
The first batch of resin mostly leaked out through the seams. It was expected so I mixed a small batch. The first batch also sealed the seams as it cured so I shouldn't have to worry about any more leaking, I'll just have a lot of cleanup to do on the finished product.
February 17, 2011
FTFY
Okay, this turned out to be a better solution. Just cut up some paperclips and poked them through the wall.
Last step will be too patch up a few holes with some more silicone. It's a big mistake I made several times while separating the two halves of the mold.
Once all the holes are sealed I can revisit the shell issue. Unfortunately I'll have to deal with seams sticking out on the finished product but I should be able to sand or file them down.
Last step will be too patch up a few holes with some more silicone. It's a big mistake I made several times while separating the two halves of the mold.
Once all the holes are sealed I can revisit the shell issue. Unfortunately I'll have to deal with seams sticking out on the finished product but I should be able to sand or file them down.
February 16, 2011
Okay...
So The silicone still ended up being thinner then I would have liked but it holds up okay. I created a plaster shell over it and decided it would be helpful to lock the silicone into the shell for support. Unfortunately I didn't count on the fact that I'd have to do some deep cutting to separate the two halves of the silicone.
I ended up having to break off the plaster shell which fortunately remained in one piece (more or less) since I had reinforced it with cheese cloth. It's still in very rough shape however so it's future as a mold shell is still a question.
These are the ruins of the original sculpt. As I peeled back the silicone, the top layer of Sculpey was already flaking off. Since the future of the statue is uncertain I'm back to wondering whether or not I should have baked the sculpt. If I had, I would be able to try the silicone and plaster over again. Then I look at my container full of Sculpey scraps and realize how much materials I saved to use over again.
Now the issue is re-closing the silicone. There are keys in the wall but they serve little purpose and I can't rely on the plaster to hold everything in place. I'm toying with different options to keep it closed.
I don't have enough surgical clamps to close the whole thing and tape won't stick to silicone so I might be stuck with paperclips.
I also coated the interior of the mold with baby powder. Theoretically this will help make the resin cast paintable but it remains to be seen. If it doesn't work, I'll have to find an autobody primer.
I ended up having to break off the plaster shell which fortunately remained in one piece (more or less) since I had reinforced it with cheese cloth. It's still in very rough shape however so it's future as a mold shell is still a question.
These are the ruins of the original sculpt. As I peeled back the silicone, the top layer of Sculpey was already flaking off. Since the future of the statue is uncertain I'm back to wondering whether or not I should have baked the sculpt. If I had, I would be able to try the silicone and plaster over again. Then I look at my container full of Sculpey scraps and realize how much materials I saved to use over again.
Now the issue is re-closing the silicone. There are keys in the wall but they serve little purpose and I can't rely on the plaster to hold everything in place. I'm toying with different options to keep it closed.
I don't have enough surgical clamps to close the whole thing and tape won't stick to silicone so I might be stuck with paperclips.
I also coated the interior of the mold with baby powder. Theoretically this will help make the resin cast paintable but it remains to be seen. If it doesn't work, I'll have to find an autobody primer.
February 2, 2011
Silicone
Here's my progress on the silicone so far and I way underestimated how much I would need. You can see where it's still very thin (almost everywhere) and there's still a lot of grey showing through. I've started building up the mold walls and I'll start adding keys soon.
I'll probably build up keys on the front and back as well to secure into the plaster shell. I won't have enough silicone to get it as thick as I'd like so I'll be relying on the shell for added support.
I'll probably build up keys on the front and back as well to secure into the plaster shell. I won't have enough silicone to get it as thick as I'd like so I'll be relying on the shell for added support.
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